Saturday, July 9, 2011

Ologwulogwu.

Today we went on a hike to the sacred ologwulogwo, a sacred location where water stands year-round. It is said to be the home of a deity. This deity may appear to humans as a crocodile. Or as a hive of bees. These are warnings he gives to people who are nut pure in their heart when they enter this sacred place. Although we were not warned, the deity is very cautious about who is able to enter the mystery of this land.

Five of us started out with two guides, a site map, and handheld gps. The sky was blue, but dark clouds were not far off in the distance. Having been given this adventure by Stacy, we weren't really sure what to expect when we arrived. We walked for maybe an hour, through cassava farms, tall grasses, and waist-deep puddles that are filling in the path as the rains continue. As we walked through an extra-deep puddle, the sky opened up and water soaked us from from both directions. Just after emerging from this situation we entered a glade. The landscape was dramatically different from the farm land and tall grasses where we were coming from.

The trees enveloped us and vines hung down creating a network of nature that would make a great place for fairies and nymphs to play. Although the rain continued, we were protected by the dense overhead flora. I looked down and found a yellow plastic bracelet that looked like it belonged to a child. The silence and the peacefulness of this place was remarkable. Well worth the wading and the cold pelting of rain.

Walking back Boniface, one of our guides, sang a Nigerian folk song to us the whole way. The melody was about a how a son should listen to his father and how no one should ever tell a lie. His voice was hypnotic. By the time we returned home I was mesmerized by the experience. I am not sure whether it was the deity or the singing or the walking in the cold water, but I felt a deep calm in my soul.

The concept of the deity in the ologwulogwu makes me wonder how these traditions arise. I have no doubt that the place we went is connected to something deep and mysterious. You could feel it. The air was warmer, and things got quieter. Sometimes I think that people set up shrines to honor great mystery. Other times I think the shrines alert you to natural phenomenon that warrants caution: beehives, crocodile homes. These things are indeed a source of great mystery, but there is also a social need to protect people from potential dangers. It seems that many traditions and cultures develop spiritual beliefs that protect people, such as health laws in judeo-christian beliefs which seem outdated when we have things like running water and sewage or food handling practices that are outdated with modern technology. Protection in this way is a practical form of spirituality. I wonder how these traditions will be incorporated or modified to adapt to the new city that will be built in these locations.

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